Kumbakonam - Navagraha Temple Tour & more...

This was my first trip to Kumbakonam and it turned out to be a very memorable one. Memorable for a lot of reasons.... 

- First ever trip my dad and I made together. 

- We looked at covering only 9 temples (Navagraha Temples) in 2 days. But we covered a lot more than that! 

- Except for the tour guide provided by my friend, which we carried throughout our trip, nothing was perfectly planned. Yet, it became a perfect trip! Read on... and you will know why! :)

This was our initial plan:

We were told that it would take 1 1/2 days to go to these 9 temples that are situated in and around Kumbakonam. So, we decided to leave on a friday night, go around the temples on saturday and sunday and leave for Chennai by sunday afternoon so we could reach Chennai by sunday night. 

31st August '11 - Wednesday

As we had scheduled our trip to Kumbakonam for the weekend, I was afraid if we would get bus tickets. So, I went to SRM Travels Office in Koyambedu and booked 2 tickets in a semi-sleeper non-AC bus (each ticket costed Rs.280) 3 days in advance. 

2nd September '11 - Friday

Got up early to pack my stuff for the 2 day long trip. I knew I was going to have a busy day! And yes, It was a tight day at office, with work on one side and trip tension on the other side. Reason - Till noon, I had not got any hotel room reserved and I had no clue about how we were going to commute to all the temples! I contacted some 3-4 hotels, and oops! no vacancy! :-/ Finally, I got a AC double-bed room blocked at Kasi International (Rs.900 per room). The hotel manager said they had their own cab service that we could hire to go to the 9 temples and they said they would charge Rs.3000 for 1 1/2 days. It sounded fair to me, but I said I would confirm by night after discussing with my dad.

After getting caught in the friday-evening traffic in koyambedu, i reached home only at 7.45. Because our bus was at 9.15 and we were asked to report at 8.45, my dad was already super-tensed!. And from my house in Saligramam, it would take 1/2 hr to get to the bus stop (though it was just 2 kms away from my home). So had a quick shower and very quick dinner and left from home at 8.15... 

We took an auto to the bus stop (Rs.60! damn! we were running late. and we didn't have the time to argue with the auto man). We reached the bus stop at 8.40, got some juices, water bottles for the night travel and we boarded our bus and took our seats. I discussed with my dad regarding the cab service the hotel provided, and he said NO! He found it unfair and too much! hmmmm! confusion again! Anyways, I was happy we had some back-up!

The bus started at 9.15pm sharp as scheduled. We were told that we would reach Kumbakonam around 3.15am. But by the time we got out of the city traffic, it was 11pm and we knew we were not going to reach Kumbakonam on time! 

3rd September '11 – Saturday [DAY 1]

4.00 am: woke up from my sleep all of a sudden.... and we were still travelling! :-/ As the bus went right and left through the narrow streets of the temple town, all I knew was, we had reached Kumbakonam! Roads were wet and shining after a heavy rain the previous night. And i was happy that the weather was going to be good for travelling!

4.15 am: reached Kumbakonam bus stop and we got down the bus and walked towards an auto stand where there were some 3-4 auto-men who were trying to catch hold of us. We approached one of these guys (who was around 45-50yrs, tall, thin, fit and clean. He was neatly dressed and had kumkum on his forehead, looking genuine & God-fearing) and asked him to take us to Kasi International Hotel. He asked for Rs.40 and we got in to the auto. As we were on our way, I whispered to my dad, to ask the auto guy's opinion on how to cover the Navagraha temples. My dad refused to. But, I forced him to! :D (obviously! he is a locale and he will definitely give us options and ideas!) the auto driver said, generally cabs charge around Rs.1800 per day. So if we are looking at covering the temples in 1 1/2 day it would be Rs1800+Rs900 = Rs.2700. Later, he said even he could take us around in his auto and said he would be charging Rs.1200/day and would be Rs1200+Rs600 = Rs1800 for 1 1/2 days. The best thing was, the auto driver volunteered to take us to a lot of other important temples on the way to the Navagraha temples! Both my dad and I, with no second thoughts, agreed to go touring in his auto!

4.30 am: reached Kasi International hotel… saw “INTERNATIONAL” only in the name. We could get only a non-AC room (though we had blocked an AC room). Once we got our room keys, my dad and the auto driver (named Guru) exchanged their phone numbers, and decided we start from the hotel at 7.30am.

4.40 am: went in to our room. It was little smelly n poorly ventilated. But, we thought we could adjust for the very few hours we were going to be in there. Only good thing was, the bathroom was better than what I expected it to be. It was small, yet clean.

6.30 am: woke up and ordered 2 hot-coffees through room service. And they came as warm-coffee! Got ready and left our room.

7.30 am: My dad phoned up the auto man (Guru) and he said he would take ten minutes to come. So dad and I decided to finish our breakfast meanwhile. There was no restaurant in the hotel. But just outside the hotel, there was a small restaurant. So, dad and I walked in and we had a quick breakfast. Dad had pongal and I had idly. The sambar was just too awesome that I literally drank it! :D We finished our breakfast with a hot cup of coffee! Also bought a water bottle for the day’s travel.

7.45 am: auto man had arrived and we started our temple tour thereafter!

In the first half of the day, auto man suggested we cover Chandran Temple (Thingaloor), Guru Temple (Alangudi) & Raaghu Temple (Thirunageswaram). On the way to these temples, he volunteered to take us to other important temples such as Swamimalai, Papanasam & Uppuliappan Temple.

The Navagraha Temples Tour Map

First he said he would take us to Chandran Temple (Thingaloor) which is about 1 1/2 hours travel from Kumbakonam. On the way, he said he would take us to Swamimalai and Pillayar Agraharam.

8.15 am – 9.00 am : SWAMIMALAI – a good start.

The auto driver said we would first go to Swamimalai temple. There was hardly any crowd there. We were there at the right time as we got to see the abhishegam of Lord Murugan. We did a small archana , lit 2 vilakus , did pradakshna and left.

9.45 am: PILLAYAR AGRAHARAM – to be visited after Swamimalai

This was a very small temple that was located in a small village. Lord Ganesha is the main deity there. The local people say that this temple has to be visited after Swamimalai. We then, proceeded to Chandran temple.

It was an awesome travel experience in the auto. It was green on all sides after the heavy rain the previous day. The air was clean. It is definitely a pleasure to experience all this, especially when you come from a big city that is always polluted!

10.00 am – 10.15 am: CHANDRAN TEMPLE (THINGALOOR)

First of the Navagraha Temples we were visiting. This was a small temple located in a small village which if 10 mins drive from the main road. Lit 9 vilakus and did an archana and we were done in about 15 minutes.

After we came out of the temple, the auto man said he would next take us to Guru Temple (Alangudi), which is another 1 1/2 hours drive from there. He again said he would take us to 2 important temples – Papanasam and Kalyana Sundereswarar Temple on the way to Guru Temple.

On our way, we crossed Cauvery river (which was almost dry) and Kudamarutti Dam and within minutes, (around 10.45am) as we joined Kumbakonam-Thanjavoor main road, our auto driver started to tell history about Papanasam temple. He was very informative and knowledgeable. I really felt lucky to have met him and for having him as our tour guide and driver!

River Cauvery almost dry

My dad & Cauvery

10.55 am – 11.05 am: PAPANASAM

It is a small Sivan temple but very famous for its history. After seeing the main deity – Lord Shiva, we bought a Rs.5 ticket to see the 108 Siva Lingams, to which Lord Rama performed prayers and puja. The 108 Siva Lingams are positioned in 3 long rows with 36 lingams in each.

As we left Papansam, and continued our tour, the driver provided us information about the next temple we were going to – Kalyana Sundereswarar Temple. When my dad said, lets skip it because we are running late and our main intention was to cover only the Navagraha Temples, the auto driver was pre-determined to still take us to where he wanted us to go! :) he said this is a very important temple – the siva lingam changes colors every two hours between 6.00am & 3.30am. It really sounded interesting. And I did want to see the colour changing…!

http://templesoftamilnadu.co.in/2011/01/22/kalyanasundareswarar-temple-thirunallur/

11.25 am – 11.35 am: KALYANA SUNDERESWARAR TEMPLE

As we were running late, we rushed to the main deity and the lingam was gold in color. It was glowing. I was wishing I had more time to see the color changing. (Hoping to see it atleast the next time).

12.10 pm – 1.00 pm: GURU TEMPLE (ALANGUDI)

This is the second of Navagraha Temples we visited. This is quite a big temple and there was some crowd. Once we went in, we bought 51 vilakus – 1st vilaku has to be lit for Lord Ganesha at the entrance of the temple and then the remaining 50 vilakus will have to be lit for Guru Bhagvan inside the temple. 


Just as I lit the vilakus and started to do a pradakshna, I had a pleasant surprise meeting my family friends there. Together we walked around the temple talking about each other's following plans. Soon, they left as they had come much earlier than us. Dad and I, then proceed to see the main deity - it was a very long queue, but it moved within few minutes. 

As we came out of the temple, it was HOT! So hot that we couldn’t walk the small distance to our auto bare-foot! Yes…. That was the end of the pleasant weather we saw that morning! And we were already tired. So we decided to have lunch and get back to our hotel room for a nap.

On our way back to the hotel, auto-man stopped by the very famous Mahamaham Tank.

Mahamaham Tank - view 1

Mahamaham Tank - view 2

We got down the auto and couldn't walk barefoot even for a minute. It was so hot! After quickly wetting our legs in the pond we rushed back into our auto.

1.45 pm: Lunch @Venkatramana Hotel.

The auto driver dropped us here and said this is a good hotel. This was just a minute walk from the hotel we stayed at. It was packed. So crowded that we had to wait for 20 mins. Both dad and I had special meals (Rs.55 each) and the food was decent.

2.30 pm – 4.45 pm: a good afternoon nap at our hotel room followed by a hot cup of coffee at the restaurant just outside the hotel.

5.00 pm: continued our temple tour.

The auto driver said we would go to Suryan Temple (Suryanar), Sukran Temple (Kanjanoor) & Raahu Temple (Thirunageswaram).

5.30 pm – 5.45 pm: THIRUMANGALAKUDI TEMPLE

It is said that one should first go to Thirumangalakudi Temple and perform archana to Lord Ganesha & Goddess Mangalaambikai before one goes to Suryan Temple. This is located in a small village. There was no crowd and was a very peaceful temple. We first prayed to Lord Ganesha and then headed towards the main deity – Lord Prananadheswarar and then Goddess Mangalaambigai. I lit 5 vilakus each for Lord Prananadheswarar & Goddess Mangalaambigai (to nullify problems regarding marriage).

5.50 pm – 6.35 pm : SURYAN TEMPLE (SURYANAR)

Suryan Temple 

The third of the Navagraha temples – had all navagrahas. First, we prayed to Lord Ganesha and then went to Surya Bhagwan & Guru Bhagwan (both will be facing each other). After performing archana, I bought 10 vilakus – the first was lit for Lord Ganesha, then two vilakus together for Surya Bhagwan & Guru Bhagwan (one each). And then had to go around the temple in anti-clockwise direction and light the remaining vilakus – one for every other grahas. Once all the vilakus are lit, I was asked to do a pradakshna in clock-wise direction and we left.

6.55 pm – 7.15 pm : SUKRAN TEMPLE (KANJANOOR)

This is the fourth of the Navagraha Temples that we were going to. This is a big temple, but again, there was no crowd even here. Even here, I lit 9 vilakus, did archana and we left.

Then we proceeded towards Raahu Temple (Thirunageswarar) and our auto man said he would take us to vittala perumal on our way to Raahu Temple, and after Raahu Temple, he said he would take us to Uppuliappan Temple.

On our way, our auto stopped at a petrol bunk and we had to wait for ½ hr to get fueled!

7.50 pm – 8.20 pm: VITTALA PERUMAL TEMPLE

This was one huge recently built temple raised on a very high plinth. Was beautifully lit from the outside and the orientation of the temple made it look magnificent. There was a long queue but was fast moving.

As Raahu temple would close at 9.00pm, we literally rushed to it.

8.40 pm – 9.00 pm: RAAHU TEMPLE (THIRUNAGESWARAR)

The fifth of the Navagraha temples we went to. This again, is a very big temple, but, because it was closing time, there was hardly anybody. I was asked to lit 21 vilakus, after which we did archana to Raahu Bhagwan and then prayed to the main deity – Lord Shiva.

9.05 pm – 9.10 pm: UPPULIAPPAN TEMPLE

This temple is hardly 5 mins drive from Raahu Temple. On our way, when my dad told the auto driver “Lets not go. It maybe closed by now”, the auto driver just replied “No, it will be open and you have to go there”. He was too good a person! Like he said, it was open and we made our quick prayers due to time constraint. Once we came out, our driver said that one is not supposed to go home directly after seeing Raahu Bhagwan. One has to go to another temple and then only go home. And that was the reason behind him not listening to my dad! :-)

9.40 pm – dinner

Our auto driver dropped us at the same hotel where we had lunch that afternoon: Hotel Venkatramana. We decided to continue the temple tour at 7.00 am the next morning. As we entered the hotel, they were closing! :p They said they had only tea & coffee! We were very surprised and then we decided to have our dinner in the small restaurant near the hotel where we stayed.

10.10 pm – back to hotel room, refreshed and hit the bed!

4th September '11 – Sunday [DAY 2]

6.20 am: We woke up and this time, we got 2 hot coffees through room service.

7.00 am: we checked out of our hotel room. We were charged Rs. 450 for that room. We waited at the hotel reception for our auto driver to come. After sometime, dad and I decided to have our breakfast in the nearby hotel.

7.10 am – 7.40 am: Both dad and I had pongal with plenty of sambar for breakfast.

8.00 am: auto driver arrived 1 hour late along with his nephew – Sriram, 12yrs. And this was our plan. We proceeded towards Saneeswarar Temple (Thirunallar) which is about 2 hours from Kumbakonam. On the way, our auto man said he would take us to Thirupaamburam Temple.

9.00 am – 9.20 am: THIRUPAAMBURAM TEMPLE

This is a small temple located in a remote village. Yet, I believe it’s a well-known and famous temples as there was some crowd. This temple is for Raahu-Kedhu. We performed archana and we left.

We then proceeded towards Saneeswarar Temple. But, our auto driver said he wouldn’t be able to go to the temple because it is near Karaikal – that comes under Pondicherry. So, he said he would drop us at Ambakarathur check post, from where we could take an auto (Rs.50) or bus to Thirunallar. And we could return back to the check-post the same way.

9.45 am: Reached Ambakarathur check post and took a bus to Thirunallar. (Ticked costed Rs.5

9.55 am: Dad, Sriram and I took a bus to Thirunallar. (Ticked costed Rs.5 each). The bus was so packed that it had no breathing space at all.

10.15 am – 10.50 am: SANEESWARAR TEMPLE (THIRUNALLAR)

Saneeswarar Temple (Thirunallar)

This was the sixth of the Navagraha Temples we saw. This is again a big temple, but because we went on a Sunday, it was not crowded. After praying to the main deity, I lit 2 vilakus for Saneeswarar Bhagwan and then did archana too.

After performing our prayers, we came out and thought we will take an auto back to Ambakarathur check post. As we approached an auto guy who was at the temple and asked him to take us to the check post, he asked us 200 rupees! Ha ha! My dad and I laughed out loud! 200 rupees for a place that’s hardly 5 kms away. Some people won’t change.

So, we thought we ll take the bus itself as buses were quite frequent.

11.00 am: Bus to Ambakarathur check post.

11.25 am: Reached Ambakarathur check post and we proceeded towards the remaining 3 temples (Kedhu, Budhan & Chevvai)

As we were traveling, we were realized there was no point in rushing to all the temples because all temples close around 12.30. So we decided to have lunch at Poompuhaar, relax and then go to the remaining 3 temples in the evening after 4.

12.45 pm – 1.15 pm: Lunch in a small mess in Poompuhaar

1.30 pm: Dad, Sriram and I went to Poompuhaar beach. It was so crowded. It was a very very hot afternoon. Hardly any shade. Still thought we should wet our legs and then go relax. In contrary to the high rise in mercury levels, the water was extremely cold and chill. The water was amazingly cold! And I just loved it.

Dad (yellow shirt) and Sriram by the beach in Poompuhaar

Sriram posing with all the shells he collected in the beach

After some time, we went to a nearby park where my dad wanted to doze off for 2 hours. Meanwhile Sriram was busy playing in the play lot, and I just sat under a huge tree and relaxed, doing nothing but observing people around me

3.45 pm: We got in to our auto and proceeded towards Kedhu Temple.

4.05 pm – 4.15 pm: KEDHU TEMPLE (KEEZHPERUMPALLAM)

This temple is just 15 mins drive from Poompuhar beach. We had a quick darshan after I lit 7 vilakus.

We then proceeded towards Budhan Temple which was some 20 mins drive from Kedhu Temple. On our way, we stopped by a huge lilly pond, where my dad wanted some roots so we could put them in our pond back in our home in Chennai. A gentleman who was sitting by the pond, dived into it and got us some 4-5 roots which we put in a plastic cover. When we offiered him some cash for his help, he refused to take it! He was a gentleman!

4.35 pm – 5.00 pm: BUDHAN TEMPLE (THIRUVENKADU)

This is was one huge temple. The architectural style of this temple was unique – unlike the other temples. This temple has both south Indian temple architecture and north Indian temple architecture. Being a Sivan Temple, the vimana is unusually short (like in Vaishnavite Temples). After praying to the main deity, we went to Budhan Bhagwan where I lit 17 vilakus with great difficulty – it was so breezy that I took nearly 10 mins to light them.

As we were running out of time and it was already getting dark, we decided to go to the next temple. We could see only half the temple complex. Hoping to see the remaining the next time I go there.

Once we came out, all of us had a hot cup of coffee in a petty shop just outside the temple. It was so refreshing because all of us were having a headache after roaming in the hot sun.

5.45 pm – 6.30 pm: CHEVVAI TEMPLE (VAIDHEESWARAN)

This was the last of Navagraha Temples we visited. I lit 7 vilakus here and did archana to Chevvai Bhagwan after praying to the main deity – Lord Shiva (Vaidheeswaran).

7.10 pm – Our auto driver dropped us at Mayilaadudhurai (Mayavaram) bus stop. And God…  the bus stop was packed with people everywhere as it was a long weekend and many people were traveling to Chennai. Luckily, we got bus tickets in a special bus to Chennai. As we had time to board the bus, Dad and I decided to have dinner in some nearby restaurant.

When we enquired 2 ladies about some good restaurant, they directed us to Hotel Pam’s which just opposite the bus stop.

7.35 pm – 8.15 pm: Dinner at Pam’s

Both dad and I wanted to have good hot food after the long & tiring day. So we ordered soups which was really hot and spicy, and we had some dosas and chappatis after it. I finished with a hot cup of tea which gave me a lot of energy.

After dinner, we got back t the bus stop around 8.30pm and we waited for our bus to come.

9.30 pm: The bus started as per the scheduled time. We were told we would reach Chennai at 3.15 am sharp. But dad was sure we were going to be delayed as the driver was driving too slow (according to him) and was chit chatting all the time with a passenger.

5th September '11 – Monday

4.30 am: Dad was right. We got delayed. We got down the bus @Vadapalani bus stop and took an auto to our home in Saligramam.

4.45 am: We reached home. Before I went to bed, I sorted out all the prasaadhams (flowers, vibhudhi) that were given in all the temples and put those lilly roots in a bucket of water.

The two-day tour was really tight and tiring. But at the end of it, I was more than happy. I am not a saint. Still, I was excited about traveling places. We wanted to go to only the 9 temples, but went to 17 temples. And luckily, there was hardly any crowd in any of the temples. Our darshan was quick in all the temples. My mom regretted a lot for not coming for the tour as she had decided to stay back to take care of our home. 


A very special thanks to the very knowledgeable auto-driver (Guru), who accompanied us throughout our journey, taking a lot of interest in taking us to all these temples. [Dad had decided to make him his tour guide/driver every time he would visit Kumbakonam thereafter!]

It was definitely a happy tour! : )

[for those of you who may need the driver's number.... this is for you! Guru : 9443171866]